Why go to a pizzeria in the basement of an office building? Chef Marc Vetri says, 'it reflects everything I think is wonderful about pizza that I have eaten and seen over my lifetime.'
“Is this the single most obscure restaurant location worth paying attention to in Center City? Yes — especially if pizza is your passion.”
But when I first bit into a fresh slice of Salvy pizza? My eyes popped open. The dough was flavorful and complex. And its micro-thin crust held straight with only the slightest gentle bend, despite cradling a fennel-scented mix of sausage, peppers and onions that whisked me right back to an iconic bowl of South Philly rigatoni. This was the coveted sausage ragù from Vetri’spasta bar, whose hearty savor has been reimagined here for the two-dimensional elegance of a pizza pie.
I doubt the pleasantly polished food court vibe of this basement space will draw many destination diners on its own. Vetri’s best asset — his continued passion to keep evolving in the kitchen — should be all the magnet it needs. And the notion that Vetri has chosen the actual middle of nowhere to reinvent his pizza game yet again, five years after publishing a well-regarded book on the subject,, is as delicious as it is a fascinating commentary on evolving food trends and storied chef careers.
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