Fresh oysters in landlocked Colorado are not as difficult to find as you might imagine.
The professional shucker and small-business owner started his Oyster Wulff pop-up with events held throughout the pandemic. Ahead of oyster gatherings, Wolven would put in overnight orders direct with farmer friends along the East and West coasts.
Oyster Wulff’s tropical-sweet Lanes Islands and salty-clean Johns Rivers sell for $5 apiece or $50 for a shuckers dozen. Wolven says he pays more up-front for overnight mollusks and avoids wasting them or compromising any freshness. And bar-goers lap them up in between sips of Champagne and cocktails.
Opened in February, Water Grill is an offshoot of a family-run chain of California restaurants that all source fish from King’s Seafood Company, an in-house distributor. As a result of the partnership, the new Denver location carries between 14 and 18 oyster varieties on any given day. And so far, raw bar sales here are higher than at any other Water Grill location, King has noticed.
“We can talk all day about fresh, quality product,” Michael King said, “But if we can’t get it out to the distribution center, we can’t get it to our restaurants.”Sheila Lucero has been working with oyster and seafood purveyors on the coasts for nearly 25 years as the culinary director for Big Red F restaurant group. And one of Big Red F’s restaurants, Jax Fish House and Oyster Bar, has been promoting shellfish locally for nearly a decade with its High West Oyster Fest.
“People talk about wine and terroir, but the sun and the temperatures and the water — all the environmental factors — I think for oysters are exactly the same way,” Figueroa said. “They’re almost like that perfect food.”Hyoung Chang, The Denver Post “When went out West, it was one of the easiest proteins that people could access,” Wolven explained of the history of West Coast oyster production. At the time, oysters were pure blue-collar food, protein-filled and abundant.
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