Licking fish eggs off a not-quite-to-scale mannequin feels like doing body shots off Pinocchio.
—has yet to become ubiquitous. There is an argument to be made that this particular presentation is in keeping with the theme of the bar…if you squint. I had assumed that Martiny’s, located in a former stable a block from New York’s Union Square, was named after the cocktail, quirkily misspelled.
The accompanying cocktail, made with Boodles gin and poured tableside, is the platonic ideal of a martini. Takuma Watanabe, formerly the head bartender at Angel’s Share, has brought his madcap playfulness to this new venture. His whimsy—the menu when I visited included a caprese salad–inspired cocktail—does not come at the expense of excellence, however. Watanabe’s creations are complex, creative, and uniformly well-balanced.
July 15—This story has been updated to reflect that, while this is not a prolific trend, other restaurants have also served caviar bumps off of mannequin hands.
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