Andalusian chef Paco Morales imagines he's cooking for a caliph in historic Al-Andalus, during the time of Moorish rule—the results are astounding.
Everything plays into the Thousand and One Nights fantasy. Servers present each course in perfect synchronicity, often joined by the chefs. They practice this regularly.
But ultimately, Morales is not just a cook for imagined royals. He’s a gastro-archaeologist, a chronicler of history but also an interpreter. He worked in his family’s restaurant after his eighth year of compulsory education, then went to culinary school and ended up in the kitchens of legends like Mugaritz and elBulli. Anyone who passes through elBulli, he says, learns a lot about creativity.
Creativity thrived within his self-imposed limitations. Flavors, combinations and techniques may be new—“we re-imagine the past,” he says, “we don’t re-create it”—but everything is done with respect for the area and its history. “We cook time, we cook ideas, we cook concepts,” he says now. “We try to cook beauty.”After a pause for a retrospective and a pandemic, 2021 was a important year.
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