How has SuccessionHBO invigorated the resurgence of 'quiet luxury'?
If Emily in Paris reflects luxury in a society that has vastly democratised and made a spectacle of what it means to be and look “luxe”, the clothes of Succession sneer at that notion. Recent shifts in culture, like the rise of celebrity influencers and the advent of thrifted or rented designer goods, have changed theentirely, making it possible for more people to participate in the category than ever before.
Characters in the award-winning show, Succession, fit neatly into the latter category. For those who have a penchant for conspicuous showing of wealth, the self-effacing nature of Succession fashion feels impenetrable and mysterious, if not also unsettling and indecipherable. For years, the show’s characters have garnered attention for their outfits, part of the fanfare being that the clothes worn by the uber-wealthy characters are understated and unbranded.
In the Succession season 4 premiere, Kendall Roy, one of the show’s protagonists, wears jeans, a t-shirt, a bomber jacket and a baseball jacket, a combination that at face value, could be from Uniqlo. After some sleuthing, it was determined that the outfit was a combination of pieces byand Loro Piana that cost a little under 10K. Society for a long time has been accustomed to overt display of wealth, yet Succession’s has camouflaged their on-screen billionaires in inconspicuous wealth.
Not everyone can afford that luxury. Season after season, we see supporting characters desperately struggling to dress the part in the Roy family’s world. From the show’s very first episode, when family patriarch Logan Roy all but sneers at thegifted to him by his son-in-law, the audience is made to understand that to be a try-hard is a faux-pas, no matter the price tag. A season later, his son Kendall dresses the part of an art startup bro in a bid to invest in a company.
Today, in the age of “picture or it didn’t happen” luxury is arguably more about status than it is about money, comfort or experience. When Greg Hirsch, played by Nicholas Braun, shows up to Logan Roy’s birthday party with a date donning a $2,890 Burberry tote, it’s an immediate red flag for Succession’s elite, who immediately dismiss her bag as “ludicrously capacious”. “What’s even in there, huh? Flat shoes for the subway? Her lunch pail?” says Matthew Macfadyen’s character, Tom Wambsgans.
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