Sushi in the San Fernando Valley: 4 places that do it right

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Sushi in the San Fernando Valley: 4 places that do it right
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This isn’t just the capital of Los Angeles sushi, but possibly of sushi across America, says restaurant critic Merrill Shindler.

create that dish? Really? There’s hardly a modernist sushi bar in town that doesn’t offer it.

These aren’t just good dishes — wonderful dishes, in fact. This is the food that defines sushi bar chow for many of us — especially those of us who have grown bored with the set-in-stone world of carefully wrapped nigiri sushi — rice in seaweed bondage topped with a slice of fish. Been there, done that. Bring on the kiwi topped scallop with yuzu lime vinaigrette.Go’s Mart Sushi Bar

Ask for a menu, and you’ll be handed an 8-by-10 sheet of paper, with a brief sushi list that’s a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy — smudged and barely legible. Those in the know look at the white board behind the chefs, situated next to a hand towel dispenser, that lists some 30 fish, all fresh. It’s the seafood upon which the reputation of Go’s is built.

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