Natural wine is gaining a following in the U.S. even as overall wine sales drop. Natural wine has no definition, but it's usually made with organic grapes and fermented naturally, with no additives. The result is wines that are earthy, savory and less predictable than many of the wines churned out by big producers.
As U.S. consumers increasingly prioritize authenticity and sustainability, the natural wine movement looks to reshape the industry, one bottle at a time. Interns at Pax Wines in Sebastopol, Calif., stomp organic grapes with their bare feet in large vats, pulling out the juice to start the fermentation process on Sept. 8, 2023. More wineries and wine bars dedicated exclusively to natural wine are opening in the U.S.
“Natural just sounds good, but conventional wine is pretty natural too,” said Anita Oberholster, a professor in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California, Davis. “If the idea of natural wine is going to grow, we should do research on it and define it.” “It’s how life happens. You can’t really control it. You just have to give it the best conditions for the best outcome you can get,” he said.
Some in the industry would like to see standards adopted for natural wine. That’s what happened in France, where the wine industry approved the “vin method nature” label and certification process in 2020. More than 430 vintages have used the label since then, according to the Union for the Defense of Natural Wines.
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