It’s a bad time for New York City bagels. But the world's best bagels might just be a bit further east. imjasondiamond reports on what makes Long Island bagels so great
A bounty of Long Island bagels. Photo: Christian Rodriguez A couple of Sundays ago, I was doing something I’ve done on many weekend mornings over the past few years, driving my 2014 Jetta eastward along I-495 toward Jericho Turnpike, feeling slightly ashamed. I asked myself, as I always do during these drives, whether I was betraying some sense of loyalty to New York City. I wondered what compelled me out to Long Island, but I already knew the answer: I wanted some bagels.
Poppy seed with olive cream cheese from Bagel Boss Photo: Christian Rodriguez Sure, I’ve heard people from Long Island tell me the bagels are better out there, but to be fair, I’ve heard people from Long Island tell me a lot of things are better out there. I might never have found out for myself if I hadn’t first heard about Bagel Boss’s T-shirts, Grateful Dead designs where they swap out the Steal Your Face logo with a bagel or give the dancing bears one to hold.
Garlic with scallion cream cheese from West Islip Bagels. Photo: Christian Rodriguez There are lines, but not because customers heard about a shop on Instagram or TikTok. Long Islanders go to a place like Bagel Boss because, well, it’s a place to go. There’s no pretense, and that extends to the bagels themselves.
Bagel Master and its whole-wheat everything with lox cream cheese. Christian Rodriguez. Bagel Master and its whole-wheat everything with lox cream cheese. Christian Rodriguez. To be clear, I’m not saying every bagel on Long Island is better than every bagel in New York City, but taken as a whole, the bagels in New York’s easternmost suburbs are criminally underappreciated. I suspect that one reason more people don’t know about Long Island’s glorious bagels is because of Long Island itself.
I thought about how many times I’d wondered if my local Brooklyn bagel shop was having an off day; about how two bagels from the same place can look and feel like they’re from completely different shops; how I’ve seen, with my own eyes, shop employees dispatched to the nearest grocery store to stock up on smoked salmon because somebody screwed up the wholesale order.
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