New York’s Finger Lakes region has long been known for reliable Rieslings—but on a recent trip north, our wine columnist found there are still unexpected delights to discover
I know discuss the Finger Lakes region of New York, two topics invariably arise: the Riesling grape and the long drive north.
Forge Cellars, my first stop, produces a truly remarkable number of single-vineyard Finger Lakes Rieslings. I counted 13 single-vineyard-designated 2020 Forge Cellars dry Rieslings as well as a single-vineyard Cabernet Franc and three single-vineyard Pinot Noirs. Managing partner Richard Rainey co-owns the winery with winemaker Louis Barruol, whose family owns Château de Saint Cosme, in the Rhône Valley of France.
A few miles from Hickory Hollow at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, co-owners Oskar Bynke and Fred Merwarth produce a range of wines but have long been renowned for their Rieslings, both sweet and dry. When I broached the subject of vineyard selection, Mr. Bynke produced a map ablaze with analysis on acreage, exposition and grape variety, rendered in an array of fonts.
The single-vineyard wines we tasted revealed his good judgment. The 2019 Ravines Argetsinger Vineyard Dry Riesling was full-bodied and powerful, while the 2019 Ravines 16 Falls Vineyard Dry Riesling was yet more impressive: brilliantly acidic, almost savory—and a very good deal.