The Italian place where you don't eat 'Italian' food

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The Italian place where you don't eat 'Italian' food
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Forget pizza and pasta, this remote Italian town is serving up perch, pike and eel. Visitors say it’s like nowhere else in Italy. This Sunday at 9 p.m. ET/PT, SearchingForItaly explores the rural region of Umbria.

explores Umbria, Italy. Tucci sampled the traditional cuisine from wild boar and slow-cooked pork to pigeon. Warning vegetarians: This episode contains a lot of meat.Everyone who travels to Italy knows the drill. A day of culture and maybe a little shopping, followed by aperitivo and piles of pasta for dinner. Or, possibly a pizza -- or even risotto.

Lake Trasimeno's food, which can at first seem incongruous to foreign tourists, is actually what Italians call"zero kilometer" food -- in other words, as local as it gets. Not only that, but there's a reason some of the dishes can seem strange. And there's a reason why they almost disappeared, too.Today it's a peaceful retreat, but in the postwar period, politicians tried to turn the lake into a 'beach' resort.

"Today, if you come to Lake Trasimeno you'll eat [the lake's own] fish but it wasn't like this until a few decades ago.""There's a new knowledge of local resources, of the territory -- we talk about slow food, of food and wine."There was always a divide between fishermen and agricultural workers around the lake.

Scarpocchi and her family also serve modern dishes, but for her, carpa in porchetta is"historic -- it's always been made like that, and we want to keep it going."Georgiy Datsenko/iStockphoto/Getty Images "A peasant's biggest fear would be to marry their daughter to a fisherman, and the fisherman's biggest fear would be the same."

In the postwar period as politicians sought to create a landlocked Rimini, lake fish was"neglected," says Parbuono. It was even disappearing in people's houses."There was that one granny or aunt who made tegamaccio [fish stew] once a year, but it was very, very rare," he says. The idea is to offer a slower kind of tourism, that attracts a different, more thoughtful kind of tourist -- someone who's more likely to appreciate the food, or attend theAngela Hewitt is one of them. A Canadian concert pianist based in London, she's the festival's artistic director, but bought a lakeside piece of land to build her dream retreat in 2002.

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