The Pandolce that won back Christmas.
According to legend, pandolce was invented during a contest among the city’s pastry chefs in the 16th century, when the Doge challenged them to create a dessert representative of Genoa’s wealth and grandeur. Traditionally, before being served, a sprig of bay leaves is stuck into the middle of the cake and then brought to the table by the youngest member of the family. The oldest at the table would cut the first slice, wrap it in a napkin, and give it to the first passing alms-seeker.
With each Christmas spent there, I fall deeper in love with the city, and I understand my mother-in-law a bit better. I always go food shopping with her in the historic Soziglia district, which is packed with tiny, marble-floored shops that have been selling the same products for centuries. Following her petite frame through the bustling, the narrow passages of the maze-like city center, she transforms before my eyes.
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