Fort Greene’s Oma Grassa turns out dazzling pizza (via EaterNY)
So what difference does this oven make? It crisps the bottom of a pie that might otherwise be — in the style of Naples pizza — soggy, allowing a more-profuse array of toppings on a firm foundation. Basically, this method creates a hybrid style of pizza halfway between Naples and New York. The electric oven also guarantees a higher level of precision and consistency where pizza baking is concerned. This is pizza catapulted into the modern era.Oma Grassa’s cherry tomato pizza is sweet and cheesy.
Eight pies are currently available, and I tried five in two visits. The margherita is something of a default, and always the perfect test of a pizzeria anyway. The cheese is more dense than usual, with pecorino tweaking the mozzarella, and the tomato sauce tasting slightly of oregano. These are generous 14-inch pies, and one would easily feed two.
Even better is the anchovy pie , a cheeseless exercise in powerful flavors, also containing capers and olives, making it like puttanesca. I loved it enough that I was still thinking about it on the subway afterward. Using the ubiquitous cupping ’roni, the pepperoni pie was fine, though a littleon one occasion. A better choice was the pie peppered with cherry tomatoes — adding an element of sweetness, as well as some creamy ricotta for a dairy tour-de-force.
Though Baumgart’s toppings are largely conventional, there’s an unusual pie that comes with three cheeses, roasted garlic, and lemon, smothered at the last moment with greens that’s quite good. Oma Grassa also offers a selection of add-ons, including fennel sausage and pickled chiles, but use these sparingly because the pies are already flavor-balanced and well-conceived.Only three apps are offered, but these show off Baumgart’s experience as a chef.
Yes, there are other pizzerias that function as natural wine bars, but the wines here are particularly well-matched to pizza. In Naples, most people drink a Coke with their pizza, anyway, but those who drink wine often pick a chilled and fizzy red.
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