From medicinal tonic to nostalgic deli classic.
A product of a redesign by Herb Lubalin in the 1970s, the branding is unchanged to this day—and the soda's continuing existence depends on the old-New-York nostalgia of its drinkers. As this writer, who fondly recalls sipping on cans of Black Cherry with her Bronx-born-and-raised grandfather in a fluorescent-lit booth at Epstein’s in Yonkers, New York, set about writing this story, it began to seem like stubborn affection from deli-goers is all that keeps Dr. Brown’s afloat.
As the legend goes, in the late 1860s a Dr. Brown—either a physician or a pharmacist—became worried about malnutrition among Jewish children in New York’s immigrant communities and developed a slurry of celery seeds and seltzer water mixed with sugar to make it go down easier. He peddled it from door to door and mouth to mouth until he secured a contract in 1869 with a bottling company on Water Street. There they began packaging it as Dr. Brown’s Celery Tonic.
A sentimental product from its first distribution, Dr. Brown’s found a receptive audience that fondly recalled both carbonated and vegetal drinks from the old country. Between 1880 and 1920,
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