The picturesque spa town of Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, allows visitors to tap into a historic small town life we so often are too busy to savor.
hen driving long distances, I always prefer to take the scenic route. I set Google Maps to avoid highways and venture forth, reveling in the slow-paced, single-lane bliss of America’s rural pockets. I pass fading Main Streets, their heydays long past, admiring the storefronts, churches, and courthouses which were built with such obvious pride a century ago.
Berkeley Springs lies in the state’s eastern panhandle, a string of counties tacked onto the main body of the war-forged state in a bid to keep the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad safely within Union territory. The area’s history stretches much farther back. Its mineral-rich springs attracted local Native peoples for ages before European settlers arrived in the 18th century.
We spent an hour walking the grounds, admiring the many-layered history of the complex: the waterworks controlling flow and distribution are imposing and modern, but the nearby “,” where guests can soak in heated spring water for $27 per half-hour, was built in 1815. After my tour, I availed myself of such a rejuvenating soak.
A short walk from the bathhouses, I visited the Ice House Artist Co-Op, a well-appointed multi-story gallery space which features only artists who live within a 50-mile radius of town. There, I was greeted warmly by ceramicist Lisa Duluth Swanson. She asked what brought me to Berkeley Springs, and when I told her I was there as a travel writer, she urged me not to write a fluff piece.
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