“Seeing Black women command the runway and magazines in his designs created a seismic shift in me,” writes CultureShockArt on the impact of Patrick Kelly.
Photograph by Oliviero Toscani. Courtesy of the Estate of Patrick Kelly. Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco; somewhere amid the chaos of chores and the requisite entertainment required to sustain the work, I would catch glimpses of. In hopes of emulating my own chic mother’s fashion sense, I’d study the designers and models featured on CNN’s weekly show. This is where I first saw the American fashion designer Patrick Kelly.
In his heyday, Kelly’s designs pushed racial and cultural boundaries—but these days, his name is rarely recognized. Back in the 1980s and ’90s, he approached design with the consummate assurance of a salesman confident in his belief that Black women needed a welcoming, egalitarian space within fashion that also celebrated joy. While his impact on inclusion in fashion is often overlooked,Grace Jones wears a fanciful ready-to-wear look at Patrick Kelly’s spring 1989 fashion show in Paris.
From left: woman’s ensemble—coat and dress, fall 1986; woman’s dress, fall 1986; woman’s dress, fall 1988. All looks will be on display at theImage courtesy of the Philadelphia Museum of ArtPatrick Kelly: Runway of LoveThe designer moved from Mississippi to Atlanta in 1974, where he created window displays at the YSL Rive Gauche retail store and refined his side hustle designing repurposed vintage clothes.
Photograph by Oliviero Toscani. Courtesy of the Estate of Patrick Kelly. Image courtesy of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco
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