Jonathan Nunn focusses on the cooking of diaspora communities—normally in the suburbs. The reason London is a great food city “has nothing to do with what’s going on in central London,” he said. “Well, it’s a part of it. But it’s not what I value.”
On a recent, gray, nothing sort of day, I met Jonathan Nunn, a tall, bearded man in a charcoal-gray cape-like overcoat outside a snooker hall in Edmonton, a suburb of North London that was previously known to me for its reservoirs, its fast roads out of town, and a serviceable branch of. Facing us, across the street, was the Yayla Food Centre, a grocer and halal butcher, offering “Turkish, Polish, Bulgarian, Eastern Europe, African and Etc. Products.
Three years after its launch, Vittles has some forty thousand subscribers , employs two editors—Sharanya Deepak and Rebecca May Johnson—and publishes twice a week.
He finds a lot of places on Google Maps—stray pins, advertising specific dishes—and seeks to add them to his personal atlas of the city. As a child, Nunn thought he might become an astronomer. “I have a mind that, like, accumulates things,” he said. He found it easy to memorize the world’s capital cities and national flags. A couple of years ago, he was eating at an ostensibly Mexican joint in Brixton when he noticed a Honduran flag on the wall.
Nunn and I turned north, onto Hertford Road, the main drag through Enfield, and passed another shuttered kokoreç van, next to a gas station. We had been walking for about two hours. Since he returned from L.A., Nunn had been roving far and wide. “I feel, in the moment, slightly manic in terms of, like, how much I want to do,” he said. The previous day, he had been in New Malden, almost thirty miles away, on the opposite side of London, seeking out Korean dishes.
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