Thelma West Is Blazing a Trail for Women of Color in Fine Jewelry—And Making Rihanna Shine

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Thelma West Is Blazing a Trail for Women of Color in Fine Jewelry—And Making Rihanna Shine
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The Nigerian-born, London-based jeweler Thelma West makes stunning one-of-a-kind pieces.

For many people, fine jewelry is the ultimate fashion statement. Precious metals and gemstones have been status symbols for centuries, but the world of bling is surprisingly small. Only a handful of brands operate at the highest levels, and their access to the finest materials allows them to create wearable art.

Diamonds emerged as West’s focus; their mystique was as crucial as their connection to her heritage. Historically, the diamond industry has exploited workers and natural resources across the continent, something West was keenly aware of. “Being African, I have a firsthand understanding of the importance of these gemstones and what they mean within our cultures,” she says. “[Still] it was eye-opening to understanding how these gems are mined, by who, and where we are within the industry.

West's Embrace bracelet set in 18k recycled gold and set with a duo of ethically-sourced, trapeze-shaped diamonds.Photo: Courtesy of Thelma West Even when others didn’t appreciate her work, West understood the value and importance of what she was trying to build. “I had to put my head down and say, I know where I’m going and what I want to accomplish,” she says. “Keeping that top of mind is what allowed me to continue.” Though there were ups and downs, West’s breakthrough came when she opened her studio in Hatton Garden, in the center of London’s jewelry quarter. “I claimed my seat at the table, and that was big for me,” she says.

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