For Steven Meisel, 1993 was a stellar year, awash with supermodels, fashion legends and countless Vogue appearances. On the eve of a new exhibition celebrating his annus mirabilis, the photographer speaks to Michael Benson.
It’s a balmy August evening when I meet Steven Meisel on the dockside in A Coruña, a port city in the Galicia region of northwest Spain. In November, a rare exhibition of his work,, will open at the beautiful space that Elsa Urquijo designed for the MOP Foundation; chair of Inditex Marta Ortega Pérez’s initiative to bring cutting-edge exhibitions to A Coruña. Steven has agreed to walk me through the show.
This moment in the early 1990s seems to have been a perfect time for him, and perhaps that goes some way to explaining his prodigious work rate. “I need to be inspired by great clothes and back then there were so many great designers. It was fashion, fashion, fashion…” We move on to a group of images made at Yves Saint Laurent’s atelier on Avenue Marceau in Paris. We find Loulou de la Falaise reclining in the lounge where the great couturier’s clients would await their moment.
The exhibition opens with a small group of street photographs of passing women taken when Steven was in the sixth grade. Seen here for the first time, they are like mini-Garry Winogrands, and seem to hint at things to come. Steven is not so sure. “I think that obviously looking at those pictures from a 12-year-old’s perspective, I might have been dreaming of possible futures but no, I never thought that I would have a job as a photographer.
Location has always been important for Steven and at this time nowhere more so than the wide hallways of the Ritz Paris. “I was obsessed with those wide hallways. Christy would be in one room. Linda would be in another. And then Madonna would be upstairs in the attic room. It was like a fun house.” Fun is an important part of his creative process – a feeling of play that allows him to create an environment with models. “It’s part of everything. We have to laugh.
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