For a growing group of Chicana cooks, eating meat-free is about reclaiming their roots.
, which has occupied the same corner, painted with a cartoonish mural of her face, since October 2018. Vallejo, who lives nearby, offers a sliding scale for locals, the elderly, and people with EBT cards. But plenty of customers seek her out from her Instagram account and pay full price. She also hosts monthly multicourse vegan supper club dinners at private spaces around L.A., where she eschews mock meats and focuses on plants.
It’s an enticing puzzle to solve: How do you capture the essence of a dish you grew up with and love, without the ingredients that made you love it in the first place? “I’m on my own little mission, my own journey,” she says. “And I’m finding a lot of other people who are joining me on the path.
In 2015 she launched a line of smoothies at three farmers markets on L.A.’s east side and one downtown. The Brown Power, a mix of raw cacao, oats, kale, vanilla, dates, and almond milk, was an immediate hit; Ramirez said her customers told her it reminded them of Choco-Milk, the fortified Mexican chocolate milk powder ubiquitous in their childhoods. Today Ramirez and her 12-person staff cater weddings and private events and have a stall at Smorgasburg downtown.
“Prior to the last few years, whenever you looked at the food companies in the health category, they were all geared toward white folks. You haven’t really seen people of color becoming prominent figures within that space,” Ramirez says. That presence—and the food—is striking a chord with her customers. “They’re like, ‘That person looks like me, that person looks like my family member, that food looks like what I eat at home.
She started to make tortas for herself and friends, and then in 2016, she cooked lard-free jackfruit tamales in salsa roja for a local underground supper club, the now-defunct Green’s Center for Plant Based Nutrition. Encouraged by the positive reception, she made a second appearance, with a jackfruit version of her grandmother’s birria, spooned into tacos and topped with a crunchy red cabbage chipotle slaw.
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