Cherokee chef Bradley Dry grew up cooking Appalachian food—in Oklahoma.
On a cold fall night in Tulsa, I met Bradley Dry over a pot of beans and a hot stove. Dry, a food stylist and freelance chef, was cooking one of his favorite meals: beans and ham, fried corn cakes, cornbread, and tomato salad. For people who know Appalachian food, these dishes are familiar staples. Dry didn’t learn how to cook in the mountains rising from the country’s Eastern Seaboard but rather hundreds of miles away in the soft hills of Oklahoma.
Many of the foods central to Appalachia—such as corn and wild edibles like mushrooms and ramps—came directly from Cherokees. Many of the foods central to Appalachia—such as corn and wild edibles like mushrooms and ramps—came directly from Cherokees. Dry’s grandmother would take green beans off the stalk, string them, and hang them around the house . She kept a vinegar starter in the family for generations. “I don’t even know how old it is,” Dry told me. She never explicitly described her cooking as Appalachian. “It’s just what she knew,” he said. “Because the food is Cherokee, it is automatically Appalachian.
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