This dish at Coltivare in the Heights is so good it stopped time for our critic
Alison Cook/StaffEvery so often in my critical life, a dish will make time seem to pause and then stretch, as I find myself marveling, “How can anything taste this good?”
These were exceptional ingredients masterfully handled by chef Ryan Pera and his lieutenants. The lilting ricotta came from Dallas’s, a distinguished pioneer in the world of Texas cheese. The vividly green local peas—some whole, some coarsely chopped—and the dark emerald mint leaves came together in a sluice of fruity lemon mosto, the Ligurian olive oil pressed with fresh citrus.wheaty sourdough batard, one of the city’s finest loaves, were on hand for scooping duty.
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