The father of the atomic bomb chased history—and then ran from it. Here’s how to visit places important to the influential physicist, including a U.S. Virgin Islands beach.
The site in Los Alamos, New Mexico, where Robert J. Oppenheimer and his team developed the first atomic device in the 1940s is now a United States national historic park. It includes structures like this replica of the campus’s main gate.
You remember it: Following the bombing of Hiroshima, the scientist stands before a stone fireplace in this room and gives a victory speech to the Los Alamos staff. But even as he mouths words of triumph, Oppenheimer privately suffers searing visions of the devastation the bomb has caused. “As a reminder,” a guide tells a clutch of tourists, “you are not permitted to remove anything from the ground.”
There is no indication that Oppenheimer ever set foot on the Nevada test site, where more than a thousand descendants of the Gadget were detonated over a span of three decades. Still, the site is essential to Oppenheimer’s story in that it represents his worst nuclear nightmares. Primarily, the Smithsonian-affiliated Atomic Museum serves as a visitors center for the Nevada Test Site, officially known as Nevada National Security Sites . Thanks to the museum’s continuing relationship with NNSS, once a month a busload of 50 or so history buffs leave from the museum’s parking lot to begin
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