Salt & Straw, an ice-cream company, has also claimed a piece of the Thanksgiving pie. The 2022 edition includes Roasted Peach & Sage Cornbread Stuffing, Parker House Rolls with Salted Buttercream and even a turkey flavor.
At his pizzerias in the Buffalo, N.Y., area, proprietor Nick Argy likes to get creative with his toppings by offering pies with options from fig jam to chicken fingers. But come November, he takes things to the next level in recognition of the Thanksgiving holiday.
Actually, Mr. Argy might be more in the mainstream these days. Increasingly, restaurants of all kinds are getting in on the Thanksgiving act, creating mashup items that combine various elements of the holiday meal. Salt & Straw co-founder Tyler Malek says the Thanksgiving offerings can create their share of controversy, noting that a mashed potatoes-and-gravy flavor served in the past was especially divisive. But this year’s turkey ice cream has gone over well. “It’s surprisingly delicious,” he says.
Not that putting together a Thanksgiving mashup is so easy these days for restaurateurs. One problem some are facing: a turkey shortage. “The bar for creativity has moved,” says Andy D’Amico, the chef behind 5 Napkin Burger in New York City. He offers a Thanksgiving-themed burger with ground turkey mixed with a cornbread-sausage stuffing, complemented with gravy and cranberry mayo.“There’s good fusion and confusion,” says Stephen Zagor, a hospitality consultant who also teaches a course on the food business at Columbia Business School.
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