Turns Out, St. Louis Cut Ribs Are the Secret to Perfect Pork Ragù

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Turns Out, St. Louis Cut Ribs Are the Secret to Perfect Pork Ragù
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This shredded pork sauce is rich and herbaceous, and pairs perfectly with thick, fresh pappardelle noodles.

Marinating pork ribs in a wine-and-herb mixture overnight ensures the meat is tender and flavorful.Slow-cooked pork ribs break down into meaty shreds that cling to wide pappardelle noodles.Pappardelle, Tuscany, and ragù di cinghiale are all linked together in my memory of my time living and cooking in Italy. Just thinking about wide, satiny, egg-rich pasta ribbons tossed in meaty, herby, Chianti-kissed sauce transports me back to Siena.

Making the pappardelle is manageable, even here in America. Use good eggs, plenty of yolks, knead the dough lovingly, roll it paper-thin, and use a sharp knife to cut the noodles. Check. But, making ragù di cinghiale without the cinghiale is a much more intimidating task. Could good ‘ol American pork work in a traditional Tuscan wild boar sauce? I set out to at least give it a whirl.

I also experimented with adding different amounts of red wine in the marinade; while I wanted the final sauce to have an undeniably wine-forward flavor, I did not want it to taste astringent or sour. And, I certainly didn’t want to ask home cooks to open more than one bottle of wine for cooking. A little more than two cups cups of red wine relative to the quantity of pork was enough to coat the meat and develop robust flavor in the marinade without letting any go to waste.

Even with a moderate amount of wine in the marinade, it still seemed a shame to discard it the next day and use fresh wine for the braise , especially once it is infused with all those great aromatic notes from the garlic and spices. Rather than pouring it down the drain, I strained the marinade and added that to the sauce to simmer the pork in. This developed great flavor and was a smart and efficient way to build flavor into my sauce.

The final element of the sauce that I had to figure out was the tomato. The sauce should be both assertively meaty and wine-y, and when I first cooked a version of this ragù with a big 28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes, the flavors I had developed with the overnight wine marinade were overshadowed by the tinned tomatoes. After a long simmer, the tomatoes became thick and jammy–not what we want here.

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