With restaurants banned from serving dine-in customers, even high-end restaurants are pivoting to takeout.
Vespertine for $49, Auburn for $39, n/naka for $38, Dialogue for $35. In a world that has seemingly turned upside down, several of the city’s most elite and exclusive dining establishments — finding themselves in the same perilous situation as every other restaurant — have thrown themselves into the takeout and delivery game.
At Vespertine, the futuristic Culver City restaurant where it can be difficult to tell where the plate ends and food begins, Jordan Kahn has started selling family-style meals of Wagyu beef brisket, roasted chicken, farro risotto and squash gratin. Instead of biodynamic blackberries presented by monkish servers in the restaurant’s courtyard for dessert, there are chocolate chip cookies and brownies.
Brandon Hayato Go at Hayato last year. He thought hard about doing takeout during the coronavirus shutdown but ultimately decided to close his downtown L.A. restaurant for now. He encountered a steep learning curve when he introduced takeout last week at Pasjoli, his nearby French bistro. The initial menu was in keeping with the restaurant’s usual dine-in dishes: a milk-fed pork chop with fennel gratinee; trout meunière; a towering Mont Blanc for dessert.“It was a poorly designed concept,” Beran said. “The reality is people don’t really want high-end takeout.”
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