Each designer may tackle it from a different angle, but the important thing is that in 2020, they start somewhere.
As more pressure is placed on designers — from both customers and people in the industry — to be size-inclusive, a lot of attention is placed on how many curve models are sent down their runways at fashion week. We'll cite that number each season, as shorthand to evaluate how significant that shift towards body diversity has been.
The seeming dip in plus representation on the runway for Fall 2020 should raise concerns. But like when we're talking about size inclusivity retail, fit and so many other aspects of the fashion industry, a single number doesn't paint the full picture. Seeing curve bodies on the catwalk is important, of course. But we should also be scrutinizing other parts of the fashion-week machine — and get on the same page when it comes to what "inclusive" means.
"It starts to feel personal," says influencer Kelly Augustine in regards to designers offering plus but not showing it on the runway. "It may be offered at a department store, but on the runway, you just don't want it to exist." If diversity is not reflected in those making the decisions, then failure and slip-ups are almost inevitable. Both Augustine and Chiwaya have worked with brands before to do both consulting and damage control, and they've witnessed firsthand the lack of knowledge about the plus market that comes from an all-thin team.
IMG Models represents some of the most used curve models in the industry, from Candice Huffine to Marquita Pring to Precious Lee. And in recent years, White has seen an increased interest in designers to reflect size diversity on their runways. But without the samples available — especially considering the fact that casting happens only a few days before a show takes place — that's an impossible goal to accomplish.
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