Jenn shares her recommendations for a vegetable-centric tartare at n/soto, scallop tostadas, cacio e pepe chicken wings and char siu ribs at Pearl River Deli.
in West Adams is intended to taste like one thing and one thing only: carrots. And it may be the most compelling preparation of a single vegetable in Los Angeles at the moment.
The tartare arrives in a perfect circle, hidden under coins of orange, white, yellow and purple carrots. A few slivers of raw fennel lounge across the top. The Nakayamas, who are also behind the two Michelin-star, use no fewer than five preparations of the star vegetable. Carrots are peeled and then broken down into wider and more narrow sections. The wider cuts are roasted. The smaller cuts are pureed into a carrot cream. The skins are dehydrated and turned into carrot dust.
Everything is combined into a sort of chunky carrot salad reminiscent of the best picnic potato salad. The roasted carrots are cooked to a pliant, mellow sweetness that ricochets off the tart pickles and the crunch of the raw vegetables. On the side, a smear of brown butter miso hummus. It’s a lavish chickpea spread inspired by Niki’s memories of eating burnt miso with butter on rice as a treat in Japan.
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