Why Did It Take a White Chef to Pique My Interest in My Own Mexican Culture?

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Why Did It Take a White Chef to Pique My Interest in My Own Mexican Culture?
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'My path to becoming a Chicano taco expert was paved with internalized racism. But now the food I grew up rejecting is my greatest passion—and my career.'

I still trip out about the person I’ve become: a food writer with an expertise in Mexican food, especially tacos. Tacos are my life. I live and breathe them and spend all day figuring out ways to get people excited about them. I just co-wrote a cookbook on Oaxacan home cooking; I am the editor in chief ofan indie publication dedicated to celebrating the taco lifestyle; and I curated all the tacos featured on Netflix’sI never wanted to eat my mother’s cooking.

Her cooking was the food my parents ate when they didn’t have anything else, but now they had something else. My palate came to signify the next phase in their assimilation: the child who chooses bland American staples over the cuisine of his heritage.That all began to change once I became a teenager. My universe opened and new interests came charging in: Crust punk, weed, and a new appreciation for global cuisine.

If I could go back in time, I would tell my spoiled-brat kid self to go ahead and make a meal out of tacos de frijol because that is the dish that made your parents strong. That it’s the dish that built entire empires. That you can thank Mexican food for cacao, corn, tomatoes, vanilla, and chia. Combine these indigenous power foods with the Old World force of Spain via mestizaje, and it’s no wonder why there’s an entirely new subculture dedicated to the Taco Life.

And now it’s my responsibility to say who deserves the limelight. Whose cooking matters. What chefs deserve the attention. To remind you why you shouldn’t complain about the bill at a nice Mexican restaurant, when you probably wouldn’t think twice if it were Italian or French.

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