“So-called Indigenous-inspired pieces still exist on the market. This year I reclaimed them,” says Vogue writer Christian Allaire on buying back appropriated clothing.
We all agree that it’s an odd transaction—to pay for goods that essentially rip off our heritage. However, some of the vintage sellers who are listing these items are asking the same questions. Johnny Valencia, for instance—the owner of Pechuga Vintage—says he always thinks twice about procuring items that feature elements of cultural appropriation on them. He cites as an example Roberto Cavalli’s spring 2003 collection, which featured Chinese cheongsams.
What exactly do I plan on doing with my growing collection of appropriative fashions? Perhaps they could be a part of an informative art exhibit in the future, showcasing the way clothes can reflect how and which cultures are valued—or in my case, which are tokenized or stereotyped. “Vintage fashion acts as a time capsule,” Valencia agrees. “The acquisition of certain pieces gives way for certain conversations to happen.
For now, I’m simply focused on continuing to grow my vintage collection. Each piece illustrates a different way that people have misunderstood my culture, and I feel hopeful when I see how far we’ve come since then. Gone are the days of performers and attendees wearing headdresses at Coachella or fashion brands blatantly copying traditional textiles or pieces . Yet with each vintage purchase, I feel as if I am now rescuing the souls of Native folks who are trapped within these pieces.
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