Why NYC’s buzziest new restaurant is actually a pretentious nightmare

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Why NYC’s buzziest new restaurant is actually a pretentious nightmare
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Al Coro is too much concept and not enough common sense.

Al Coro has a lot of great food. But everything else about the much-hyped place — the look, the vibe, the prices — is rotten to the Coro.The pleasures of Chef Melissa Rodriguez’s spirited, creative cooking are buried and left for dead beneath weird, unfunny shticks that will drive you to drink more $21 cocktails than yourcan afford. The bill for two easily tops $600, even when ordering the “abridged” $195, five-course prix-fixe option.

A section of the mezzanine now serves as a bandstand. The group that performed the last time I was there, elaborately named Chad Selph & All the Above Featuring Ajada Reigns, performed a competent enough mix of jazz, American songbook and rock. But what is this — a supper club? Dinner theater in Pennsylvania?

The seven-item aperitivi service at Al Coro can tax the patience of diners eager for a substantial meal.Al Coro opened in June with lofty expectations and Chef Melissa Rodriguez, who was Del Posto’s last executive chef, at the helm.We’ll say this for Al Coro: Our most recent experience was much better than it was a month earlier, when the waiter tried to push a second round of drinks on us after we had yet to see a morsel of food after 50 minutes.

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