California's first coffee harvest was just five years ago, and though the nascent crop is still small — production is expected to be six to eight times what it was last year.
It’s a Sunday afternoon at the San Francisco Coffee Festival at Fort Mason, and Jay Ruskey, founder of Frinj Coffee, is standing at his booth in front of a row of lush green plants wrapped in burlap. He picks up a Chemex and pours some of the aromatic, freshly brewed coffee into small cups. Ruskey and Frinj’s head roaster, Richard Masino, look up to see a long line of customers snaking out past several other festival booths.
The farm also grows ice cream beans, persimmons, pomegranates, passion fruit, dragon fruit, cherimoyas and caviar limes in soil that has become more fertile from the biodiversity of crops. William Ristenpart, director of the UC Davis Coffee Center and a professor of chemical engineering, has been following Frinj’s progress. “I love the idea of having a Napa Valley of coffee right here in California. That's what Jay and farmers are working towards,” Ristenpart says.
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