Wolves Whiskey is a brand dedicated to exploring some of the most unique, eclectic corners of the American whiskey world.
of Ukiah, California, which has been in operation since 1983. There, master distiller Marko Karakasevic has long been experimenting with various aspects of whiskey distillation, particularly when it comes to distilling finished commercial beers in several Charbay products.
What we have in this bottle is more or less unlike anything I’ve sampled in the American single malt whiskey world before, because almost none of the craft distilleries producing malt whiskey have the kind of stock to put together something like an 11-year-old batch–that, or they don’t think they can sell that product at the kind of sky-high price tag its effort would demand.
According to the brand, this spirit was distilled and barreled in 2012 using imported Irish malts with a California ale yeast, distilled in a copper alembic pot still. It was aged in a variety of new American oak, including barrels with lighter toasts and more standard char profiles. The 9-barrel blend was then bottled at 55% ABV . This makes the resulting spirit probably the oldest American single malt aged in new oak that I’ve come across–from a smaller craft distillery, at least.
On the palate, this whiskey immediately takes off in unexpected directions–words like “complex” and “challenging” are about to get bandied around. There’s a big, initial rush of caramelized sugars and honey, leading to an upfront impression that is very sweet, but that immediate sweetness is swept aside in a dramatic fashion by flavors that are much more savory and earthy–impressions of dried herbs, tobacco and roasted oak, along with more resinous pine and spice.
Overall, the effect is utterly unique, and I find it growing on me–particularly individual notes, like the chocolate one–as I go back for repeat sips. This kind of uniqueness, the desire to operate outside of traditional classifications, appears to be part of the Wolves Whiskey modus operandi, so I think they deserve credit for following through on a whiskey release that lacks many direct comparisons with what we see on the market on a daily basis.
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