Where her previous work was dreamily romantic, this collection had a decidedly Victorian anchoring.
roster, it felt like a rather ominous note for this new chapter of her career. Far from morbid, however, Yuhan’s main preoccupation here was with the rituals tied to life’s passing, and their associated aesthetics.
A sheer embroidered skirt had ruffled lace fishtails floating about the wearer’s calf -- elsewhere the same silhouette was translated with a hand-drawn rosebud print, with fringe replacing lace. Yuhan hardly skimped on the latter material though. In white, there was a crinolined day dress with gently ruched sleeves. In black, it served as a metaphorical pallbearer or the funereal theme, applied to hoop-brimmed hats-as-veils and bonnets, blouses and flouncy shawls.
If you’re familiar with Yuhan’s work, the above will sound like an encouraging development, though hardly a jaw-dropping surprise. Victoriana chic has, after all, been a staple of the brand since its founding, and her work has been marked by the stoic refinement of an inimitably delicate take on feminine dressing.
Those that came for Yuhan’s trademark romance had little reason to be disappointed. With the finale came a procession of the dramatically romantic dresses that first brought the designer to light; ruched printed fabrics and pastel-toned lace danced around their wearers’ bodies like blossoms falling in a breeze.
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