The Zero + Maria Cornejo fall 2023 collection is here:
Maria Cornejo is celebrating the 25th anniversary of her label this year. As designers often do when faced with such a milestone, she looked at previous collections and brought back some of her favorites. Devotees of the brand know that Cornejo already works with a series of silhouettes that she often refers to in her collections—and they might even know them by name: the Foil dress, the Opposite dress, the Koya coat, the One Seam Legging, the Bibi coat .
But Cornejo had a different approach in mind this season. “I thought it was really important to focus on shapes again, and things that are closer to the body and bring a more youthful spirit to it. I think it’s nice to show some skin,” she said during an appointment at her studio. For fall Cornejo went back through the archive to figure out “what looked relevant again.
The designer has long been a proponent of working with sustainable fabrics and processes, and this season some of the highlights included a series of chenille-like pieces in a fabric called Eco Pet, made from recycled plastic. A tank with an asymmetrical neckline tucked into a pencil skirt with an off center zipper had a youthful edge. Ditto the bubble shrug and tuck skirt brought back from the year 2000 in a tweedy red fabric.
There are always a few prints in every collection, and for fall, Cornejo brought back the “eyelash” print from spring 2004, on jacquard coats and dresses. They were a little abstracted and had a disco feeling, especially on a pink and black jacquard. The illustrated anniversary print first rolled out for spring 2009 felt as fresh today as it did then. Rounding out the collection was a pair of chunky ankle boots with a square toe and a sort of ribbon detail around the perimeter.
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