Nine electric, intoxicating hours inside Bogotá’s wildest restaurant
When I ask a diplomat friend — a crisis-management guy who spent a few years representing U.S. interests in Bogotá — where I should dine in Colombia, his first response is Andrés Carne de Res, a restaurant as famous for its stellar empanadas as its all-night, alcohol-fueled benders.
So at 3:45 p.m. on a Saturday, I step out of my hotel and into a station wagon with three companions — and four good dogs — to drive to Chía, a suburb 45 minutes north of Bogotá. The destination is Andrés Carne de Res. The formula is different when visiting Bogotá. Here, you’re sent to Carne de Res, where the menu offers meat, Red Bull, and Monster Energy — a clubstaurant.As a critic, I have a longof taking down North American clubstaurants, venues known for filtering diverse cultures through the monochromatic lens of a well-financed collegiate tour abroad.
By 8:45 p.m., I don’t see a single patron drinking Red Bull. I’m drinking something slightly more soporific:, a hot, starchy blend of chicken and potato broth served in an earthenware bowl. When the richness starts to overwhelm, I toss in a few giant capers to add a wallop of sour brininess. Just as good is theIt is clear and nourishing. It is studded with soft beans. It causes one’s lips to stick together for just a moment, thanks to a mound of wonderfully gelatinous pork rump.
I could go on: There’s a $100 tomahawk beef chop, as average as any $150 tomahawk chop being hawked in New York; a spicy shrimp ceviche that’s a fine balance of citrus and incendiary, tomato-laced sauce; little bites of pork belly fried to the texture of jerky; and crispy potato-stuffed corn empanadas that, when combined with green chile sauce, make it a serious competitor to the New York knish., wrote of marble potatoes that “popped like grapes” in his mouth.
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