For many immigrants, the first place they feel at home in the United States isn’t the place they live, but the place they buy the ingredients for their first home-cooked meal.
“Just to be able to hand those platters out,” Dabbour says, “[to] see the happiness on the face of the people who are getting the food … we’re part of something much bigger than just people coming to eat, you know?”
After school, he would stay in the store as his parents worked late, translating between English and Arabic for customers, bagging groceries, and discovering how gratifying it was to relieve his parents of even a little bit of the daily burden of running the business. “It used to be when you say vegetarian food, people say, ‘Ugh, vegetarian food—you’re feeding us grass,’ and they … go out and leave,” he recalls. “Now, that’s changed [in the] last 20 years. People are looking for vegetarian food. They are looking for vegan food. … They appreciate it.”
These stores must also grapple with the question of succession. Overall, over half of private firms in the U.S. today are. Only a small percentage of these are passed down to family members; others may struggle to find a buyer or simply close down when the owners retire.
As for her children succeeding her, she says, “We told them, ‘You have to love this business to stay here. You have to really love it, and you have to learn every corner of it. Because when [the staff] call in and say they’re sick, you better know how to run that machine. You better know how to step in the kitchen.’”
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