Dries Van Noten made a 180-reversal from spring’s pretty wonderment toward a harder, tougher take on chic.
“She’s a party girl.” So the soundtrack labeled her, lest you missed it from her brash, ebullient regalia.
One wonders if Dries Van Noten was at all concerned about a letdown after last season’s brilliant fashion-moment collaboration with Christian Lacroix. If so, you couldn’t tell by his fall runway. It exploded with a very different kind of exuberance as Van Noten made a 180-reversal from spring’s pretty wonderment toward a harder, tougher take on chic.
“It’s about nightlife…” Van Noten said backstage after his show. “Going out, enjoying life, having fun — [fun is] very important — and a party girl. [There’s] something mysterious, something dark, something romantic, but a dark romance.”He started with pictures of the work of makeup guru Serge Lutens, and pondered, “How would a girl like this look now, how would she use makeup?” His answer: audaciously. This collection was all about color and pattern and overstatement.
Van Noten opened with a big plaid motorcycle jacket over a chunky mustard-and-black heather cardigan and red-and-black feathery skirt, establishing the template of major mixes. And they were something: a blue floral printed shearling bolero over a pink-and-green floral top and black leather motorcycle pants; high-sheen floral trench over turquoise python boots; purple shearling jacket over orange print top, aqua-and-black metallic brocade skirt and wine suede boots.
There was so much going on that it could have been hideous. Yet Van Noten exercised a deft control that made it all not only over-the-top dazzling, but beautiful and utterly chic — party-girl perfection.
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