Is This Really the ‘Worst Steak in NYC’?

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Is This Really the ‘Worst Steak in NYC’?
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.tammieetc got a tip about the “worst steak in NYC.” For TheYearIAteNewYork, she tried it for herself, then learned why some people find it (to use the chef's word) 'challenging'

Beef at Ernesto’s. Photo: Tammie Teclemariam Last week, I revisited Ernesto’s, the very popular “Basque taverna” in Two Bridges, specifically hoping to have some very bad steak. Actually, this isn’t totally true, and I want to be clear that I’ve mostly enjoyed my meals at Ernesto’s, but all spring, I’ve been stalking the restaurant’s Instagram, waiting for their steak special to return to the menu.

The stars finally aligned last week, when the steak returned and I was able to secure a spot for myself. Part of me wanted it to be good, of course, but another part of me hoped it would live up to its notorious reputation. The other selling points of this $65 steak, I learned, were that “it’s more sustainable” and “more like what you would get in Spain but very different from what we’re used to,” which is what my waitress told me as I ordered.

I took a bite of the red flesh and noticed how much more flavorful it was than the corn-fed stuff you might get somewhere else. I started to think this was going to be a pretty good steak after all. But a couple of pieces into my meal, I caught myself chewing to the tune of “Bicycle Race,” by Queen, which was playing over the speakers. Much as I tried, I could not get the meat to break down, eventually giving up and choking down a wad of gristle with a gulp of Rioja.

I was conflicted, and not entirely disappointed, but the next day, I still had questions, so I called the chef, Ryan Bartlow. He told me the restaurant buys an entire cow from Kinderhook Farm in the Hudson Valley and uses every part, breaking it down into this dish, a smaller tavern steak, and various meatballs or braises, for example. “I know that you have to get in there with specific components of the meat, but I love every element of it,” he said. “It’s grass fed. To me, it’s delicious.

I asked if anyone ever sends back the steak, and he estimated about 90 percent of his customers like it. “There are those 10 percent that say it’s not for them, and that’s why we always try to give a spiel beforehand, that if you’re used to a tomahawk steak at Quality Meats, this is not that, you know?”

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