Why Israel is one of the most exciting wine-producing countries in the world.
, Israeli wine wasn’t generally living up to its potential. Now, however, the country’s wine sector is in “what we are calling the Fifth Wave, or the New Wave,” he told me. It’s named after the “Frenchbecause everyone in this wave are creators and artists. The decisions are not made by VPs of sales, but by the same guy who makes the wine and bottles the wine and sells the wine. We also call it New Wave because like the music of the ‘80s, it’s very avant-garde.
Yosefi explained that this Fifth Wave of Israeli wine is defined by producers who are working to express not just the individual regions and vineyards where they grow their grapes, but also by their experimentation with a more varied range than the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay that predominated in Israel for so much of its modern winemaking history. Today, great wines are being produced from Syrah, Carignan, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, and more.
As a general rule, the laws governing the production of kosher wine aren’t all that different from those required for organic bottlings anywhere in the world. Mevushal wines, or wines that have essentially been flash pasteurized in order for certain highly observant Orthodox Jews to be able to consume them no matter where they are or who pours them, are an entirely different category. The vast majority of kosher wines are not mevushal, and if they are, that status will be noted on the label.
As for the conflation of kosher wine with the notorious sweet wines that so many of us had to choke down at Passover seders and at the end of bar and bat mitzvah services, they have no relation whatsoever with the great Israeli wines of today. Manischewitz, in fact, is made in Naples, New York, more than 5,700 miles from Tel Aviv.
The wines I recommend below are all kosher, which is representative of nearly 100 percent of Israel’s wine production, yet none are mevushal, which I firmly believe has an adverse impact on the wine. These 12 recommendations, listed alphabetically, are produced in enough quantities to be relatively available around the United States, either at local wine shops or online.
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