Afghan women living in the U.S. share the recipes and the memories that keep them going.
Madina Amin and tukhm e banjan rumi, eggs cracked into a garlicky tomato base sharpened with fresh peppers.
Amin grew up watching her parents smother visitors with affection. “When you eat at an Afghan table,” she said, “there are two things forbidden to us: the first bite and the last. They are always meant for someone else, a guest. Or how we say in Dari, ‘Dosteh Khudah’ .” In Afghan culture, generosity is practiced with dogged kindness; guests are welcomed even when there’s little to go around.
Amin’s family left their homes in the wake of the Soviet invasion ― her father from Kabul and her mother from the neighboring province of Parwan. They met in the U.S., where Amin was born. She remembers the gravitational pull of her mother Shukria’s kitchen. “I would watch her for hours,” she said, “she was so elegant, so full of love in everything she did. Every dish was thought out, every ingredient bought fresh.
Amin likes to make tukhm e banjan rumi, eggs cracked into a garlicky tomato base sharpened with fresh peppers. “It’sshakshuka,” Amin pointed out, “it’s really just three, maybe four ingredients” deployed artfully, with the optional addition of coriander powder for an extra kick. Sometimes she adds potatoes and halal hot dogs to bulk it up ― “not authentic, but delicious nonetheless.” The dish is mopped up with warm Afghan naan and served with chai, fresh fruits, nuts, jams and qaymaq .
Amin remembers picnicking in the beautiful Panjshir Valley in 2010, a visit that would be her last. It was a day of singing, dancing and giddy laughter, of feeling safe in the embrace of family. Sheltered by mulberry trees, they feasted on “qutakhi dipped in local honey, kebab, qabuliand fresh-picked toot .” Today, the region is a key site of Afghan resistance. “The day Kabul collapsed was one of the worst days of my life,” Amin said. “For days, I couldn’t eat. I couldn’t sleep.
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