The Creamy-Sour Soup I Need On All Sick Days (And Winter, In General)

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The Creamy-Sour Soup I Need On All Sick Days (And Winter, In General)
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Kadhi over rice is the food equivalent to your favorite cozy cold-weather sweater.

moment for you?” You know the scene. When the snobby critic Anton Ego eats Remy the rat’s deconstructed, fancy ratatouille and the flavors flash him back to his childhood and his mother serving him ratatouille after he’s fallen off his bike.Kadhi is the food equivalent to that colorful, well-fitting wool sweater in your perpetual winter rotation.

The recipe for kadhi varies from region to region in India. In Gujarat, kadhi can be lightly sweetened with a little jaggery, and the Sindhi version has vegetables, usually okra. I have tried many versions of kadhi, made by various aunties and uncles. Some aren’t sour enough. Or they’re too thin. Or the flavor of the spices isn’t pronounced enough. My mom’s is, in my opinion, as close to perfect as it gets.

Kadhi is the dish my mom pulls out for birthdays, when I come home for the holidays, or when everyone in the house is feeling cold and stuffy. I have distinct memories of sitting on the kitchen counter doing my high school math homework, watching the cauldron-like pot of the bright yellow soup bubble away, the smell of smoky, earthy spices filling the room.

There’s one thing I will say about my mom’s version: She likes to add pakoras, fritters made of chickpea flour, to her kadhi while it’s cooking, whichtraditional in Uttar Pradesh, where she’s from. My controversial opinion is that I DON’T LIKE PAKORAS IN MY KADHI. I’m sorry, Mom, but I don’t want stuff floating around in my soup! I don’t top my kadhi with anything but chhonk. But you do you., is a dish that needs to be coddled.

How much do I love kadhi? Let me count the ways. I love how kadhi coats rice like a satin pillowcase. I love the intense bite of the whole cloves and peppercorns, which get soft but maintain a slight crunch. I love the puddles of chhonk that enrich and enliven everything around them. I love the smooth, sour flavor that makes it like no other soup I’ve ever had.Kadhi is similar in texture to cream of [fill in the blank] soup, but with no cream, and…well…better.

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