Bringing the ancient cooking medium home to the modern kitchen.
in Mexico City, to the beef tagine at Bavel in Los Angeles—I grew increasingly convinced that clay pots deserved a place in my kitchen. But even though I am a professionally trained cook, I still felt intimidated by the idea of cooking with clay at home. I went down a rabbit hole of research, poring over science and history books and religious texts and talking to chefs and other experts about the lofty intangibles of cooking with clay pots.
So it might come as a surprise that, of all people, it was international superstar, model, and legit home cook Chrissy Teigen who managed to disarm the idea of cooking in clay with a single Instagram post in which she made her husband John Legend’s chili in a clay tagine. “I first fell in love with tagines on a visit to Morocco, one of my favorite places in the world,” Teigen later told me.
Teigen’s comments made me realize that in actuality, we have all been cooking at home with clay for years: The ceramic inserts ofare the most widely distributed and used style of clay pot in America today, with 12.7 million sold in 2018. But traditionally shaped clay pots—especially those designed for cooking over direct heat–produce dishes with nuanced, deep flavors that retain their textural integrity beyond what a slow cooker can achieve. Owning an array of clay pots, I was starting to suspect, could be the way to open up a new world of deliciousness in my home kitchen. But was the difference between clay cookware and metal worth the investment in a new set of pots? I decided to put them to the test.
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