This dud candy keeps on keeping on—and we respect that.
After stuffing myself silly with french fries and corn dogs at the agricultural fair in Adelaide, South Australia, kid-me would relish going home and dizzily spreading my candy haul out on my bed. I’d go to town on the gooey caramels encased in chocolate, raspberry chews, and fizzy orange sherbets. Those were God-tier. Bottom of the barrel? Black jellybeans—and stuck-together clumps of foul, fennel-y licorice.
To me, licorice tastes like a cross between tree sap and molten tar that’s been congealed and pressed into strips tough as literal leather. I’ve always marveled that it’s the confection seemingly as divisive as climate change and crunchy peanut butter, yet, inexplicably, stays on the shelves. It’s made from an unholy union of licorice extract, sugar, and some manner of binding agent. Beeswax is usually responsible for the characteristic rubbery sheen, and molasses is what creates the ebony color. In Australia, where I’m from, licorice tends to be a staple for dads, nannas, and people who haven’t gotten the memo that candy’s had a come-up., writer Meghan Holohan tried to get to the bottom of what makes licorice so polarizing.
How licorice wormed its way past our lips in the first place is a mystery to me. Yet worm it did. Licorice’s appearance on the
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