Relae chef Christian Puglisi says the guide’s 'sustainable gastronomy' designation is greenwashing
. “The sustainable initiatives of the first chefs with this distinction will be detailed and highlighted on the various platforms of the Michelin Guide throughout the year, through the creation of various content.” Eater has reached out to Michelin for further comment.
Relae and several of its fellow Michelin clover honorees in Denmark are certified organic, Puglisi observes, but many more are not. There’s no guidance for what restaurants might do to achieve the distinction — but then again, the guide has never been known for offering much transparency or clear criteria.
And then there’s the issue of Michelin’s origins and ownership. The guide, after all, is the creation of a tire company, originally established to encourage more driving in France. Two Michelin stars still means “worth a detour” and three indicates “worth a special trip.” More stars — at least initially, and often still — means more carbon, adding an irony to the guide’s new role as an arbiter of sustainability.
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