A rich butternut squash risotto is a cinch with the help of a pressure cooker.
. Just like the sweet potatoes that Kenji describes, butternut squash contains more complex starches that we don't necessarily perceive as sweet. As it cooks, those starches are broken down into simpler sugars that do taste sweet, but the process only happens at lower temperatures, between 130 and 170°F . Go above that, and the conversion of complex starches into simpler sugars comes to a halt.
Having established that the pressure cooker wasn't going to work for the squash portion of this recipe, I switched to roasting. I even did some test batches with baking soda on the roasted squash. Without a doubt, it sped up browning, but I didn't care for the flavors it added to the squash—there was still that strange whiff of pretzel.
I could have gone that route here, too—and you absolutely should if you have the time or inclination—but because this recipe is a pressure-cooked risotto, part of what I felt it should promise is reduced cooking times. While I didn't want to sacrifice flavor in the name of speed, I also didn't want to develop a recipe that undid one of its coolest features by adding other lengthy procedures.
To pump up the sweetness while adding depth and layers of flavor, I took a two-pronged approach here. First, I roasted chunks of butternut squash with some garlic, sage, red pepper flakes, and half an apple, then puréed them together until smooth. The apple ties in so well with these flavors, and contributes a bit more sweetness without overtaking the squash flavor.
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