Think of this green-garlic soubise as risotto in reverse—loads of melted, tender onions & green garlic suspended in a rice-thickened cream sauce. It adds a contrasting richness to any braise.
Suzanne Goin, the chef at the famed Lucques in Los Angeles, marked 20 years of business in 2018 with a dinner that celebrated her now-classic blend of French cuisine and California produce. Beef cheeks, which are available at whole-animal butcher shops, have lots of connective tissue, which melts with braised and adds to the glistening, wine-fortified sauce.
Toss together chicories, lemon juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with remaining 1/8 teaspoon black pepper and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt.
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